UMC'98 - (Un-)official Guide to New Zealand Walking Tracks (North Island)
Due to popular demand...
Well, apparently the word has gotten out that New Zealand (locally known
as "Godzone") isn't just a fab place for a conference on unconventional
methods of computation, but also a nice place to spend one's holidays.
Now you've probably all seen the hint that Penny Barry will be only too
happy to assist you in booking a whole range of tours, rental cars, and
campervans through Pukekohe Travel, one of the official sponsors of UMC'98.
Now that some of you have sorted their vehicles out, the question has come
up where to go and what to see. In particular, there seems to be a great
deal of interest in tramps and walks, and I'll try to give you some hints
here.
A word of warning
Many overseas visitors are not familiar with the New Zealand environment,
and as a result they occasionally get either themselves, the environment,
or both, into trouble. Check the NZ Tramping Dos
and Don'ts Page for details before you venture out there. Tramping
experience overseas is fine, but there are many points which are specific
to New Zealand, and you should be familiar with them.
Should I visit the North Island or the South Island?
The NZ South Island has some of the world's most beautiful and renowned
scenery, and if you have more than three weeks in NZ you should give serious
thought to visiting the South Island as well as the North Island (where
you will be attending UMC'98). For shorter visits, I'd recommend either
a guided tour, or that you concentrate on one of the islands - except,
of course, you're keen on spending most of your time in the car (or whatever
vehicle you are travelling in).
The NZ North Island also has some of the world's most beautiful and
renowned scenery. What it lacks in alps and glaciers, it makes up for in
volcanoes, lush indigeneous rainforest (called "bush"), beaches, hot springs,
dive grounds and coastal scenery. Last but not least, it is also the home
to the overwhelming majority of the indigeneous New Zealand Maori population.
To a European, it will generally appear more exotic.
Opinions are sharply divided on which of the two islands is more beautiful,
so the choice will be up to you.
Tramping in the South Island
Here are a few well-known tracks - all of them known as "Great Walks" (i.e.,
the hut passes cost more than elsewhere) because they are very popular
with visitors.
The Milford Track (4 days)
The South Island is home to the world-famous Milford Track - you may have
heard about it. Unfortunately, the track is so popular that it is almost
impossible to "just do it". While it is perfectly legal to do so, the Department
of Conservation (DOC) have recognised that to do so, you'd need to swim
a considerable distance across Lake Te Anau first, then do the track without
a hut pass. Since camping is prohibited within 500m or so either side of
the track, and it so happens to be that most of the territory beyond isn't
easily accessible without a helicopter, you'd need spend some miserable
nights outside, too. And, ah yes, there's another swim involved on the
Milford side...
January is the NZ holiday season, and many people walk the track during
that time. DOC takes bookings for individual trampers, but limits the numbers
it will let on the boat and issue with a hut pass. You'd be lucky to get
a place now. There is also a guided tramp, which is much more expensive,
but usually bookable. Contact Penny for details.
Other tracks in Fiordland
Kepler (4 days), Routeburn (4 days), Hollyford (1 week). Magnificent scenery
on all of them.
Mt Cook National Park
Various tramps of lengths up to a day or two are possible from Mt Cook
village. People who don't mind crampons or ice axes can traverse to the
West Coast from here in a few days.
Queen Charlotte Walkway
This tramp in the Marlborough sounds is becoming quite popular, not least
because your luggage travels by boat...
Abel Tasman Track
Also very popular with tourists, in particular Germans and Swiss. When
I was there in 1993, I was told by DOC that about 75% of walkers came from
there. Still, compared to some European routes you'd probably find a couple
of dozen fellow trampers within a few 100m of you easy to bear. Nice coastal
scenery. Can be done in 2 days or 3, depending on the starting/finishing
point.
Heaphy Track
The Heaphy Track has been in operation for quite a while, however, the
area through which it leads only recently became Kahurangi National Park.
About 6 days.
There are quite a number of other tracks and tramps in the South Island.
Good guide books are available in Auckland, and those of us who've been
there will be quite happy to advise you.
Tramping in the North Island
I guess that this will probably be in more demand, so I've provided more
details here and on a few other pages.
Contrary to common belief Auckland is not just a big city. True, it covers
about the same area as Los Angeles, but it only has a population of about
a million - so there's plenty of space for greenery and scenery at the
fringes.
The Hauraki Gulf has some beautiful islands (including Waiheke, where
the conference excursion will lead us). The hot tip here is Rangitoto Island,
Auckland's prime natural landmark and youngest volcano. The island is only
about 600 years old, and quite different from anywhere else in NZ, and
makes for an excellent daytrip.
In the west, Auckland is shielded from the Tasman Sea by the rugged
bush-clad Waitakere ranges. They're so vast and rugged that people get
lost there quite regularly (rumour has it that the son of a staff member
spent an extra night in the bush there with his school group after they'd
lost their way). The movie "The Piano" was shot there - remember the beach
scenes? The Waitakeres are Auckland's best kept secret.
Less than two hours drive away, the Coromandel Peninsula is popular with
Aucklanders as well as visitors from out of town. Overseas tourists often
visit the Kaueranga Valley and the Pinnacles. However, Coromandel has more
tramps to offer, ranging from easy to strenuous. Look back into Auckland
from Mt Moehau, enjoy the Coromandel walkway, or visit the Broken Hills
mine tunnels with the glow worms.
Located in the centre of the North Island, the Tongariro National Park
is the site of three active volcanoes, including Mt Ruapehu which only
recently erupted. Tracks ranging from several minutes to a week are available
in the park, among them the famous "Tongariro Crossing". Spectacular views
and landscape.
This park is a pretty out-of-the-way place, with dense bush, forest, and
beautiful lakes. Walk to Lake Waikareiti and hire a dinghy to explore the
"lake in the lake". The Lake Waikaremoana Track is quite well known for
its spectacular views.
Other destinations
There a quite a few more areas to visit and enjoy. Ask us and we'll be
happy to help.