The walk itself leads into alpine territory and winter clothing is recommendable. Even if you don't need it on the day you should still carry it as the weather can change rapidly. The track is now being upgraded as a "Great Walk" which means that the Department of Conservation (DOC) wants you off sensitive areas and on the formed track. At first, the track climbs at a low gradient, following a creek. Not far from the creek's origin, the Soda Springs, the track climbs in a steep section with good views back out into the Mangatepopo Valley and beyond as far as Mt Egmont/Taranaki over 120 km away. The climb ends once you reach the South Crater of Tongariro. Opinions are divided as to whether this moonlike crater without vegetation was ever a volcanic vent - some say it got formed by a glacier.
Whatever your conclusion is, there are a few big rocks not far from where you reach South Crater - a good spot for a break. If you're really keen and you have about 3 hours to spare, you might wish to attempt the ascent of Mt Ngauruhoe's scoria cone to your right. Mt Ngauruhoe is more active than Tongariro, and up there you will smell and see plenty of evidence of this. The way up take about two hours - one step forward, two back ;-). Allow half an hour for exploring the summit, and half an hour for a "scoria surf" back down to the South Crater.
The main track continues across South Crater and then veers off to the left, climbing a ridge. At the top of the ridge is another possibility for a sidetrip - Tongariro Summit, although this is only recommended if you have the extra time and haven't been up Ngauruhoe. A few metres further on the main track you hit the summit of Red Crater, an active crater with steam coming out of the ground, and sulphur deposits on its walls. The summit itself is a nice spot for lunch, partly because warm steam rises from above and makes the ground pleasantly warm to sit on.
From there follow a steep descent past the cold but colourful Emerald Lakes, and a traverse of the main crater. Sonn after you will reach Blue Lake, a crater lake, and the track veers off to the left and exits the moon-like landscape through a valley. After an hour or so, you reach Ketetahi Hut, where there is a toilet (for lack of bush on the top, most people refrain from conducting their "business" on the mountain). Ketetahi Hut's main attraction, the nearny Ketetahi Springs, used to be opne for public soaking until not too long ago. However, since they are in private ownership and DOC has a dispute with the owners, the springs are not currently accessible. However, their steam is easy to spot, even from the highway. From the hut it is another three hours descent to the Ketetahi Road end, through tussock gras and dense bush further down.
Total duration without side trips: about 7 hours.
The traditional route for the ascent starts at the top of the Whakapapa ski field. Unless you're absolutely keen, take the chairlift to Knoll Ridge chalet which starts at the top of Bruce Road. The lift staff have a small map with a suggested route - stick to it as it is easy to get lost on the mountain (even the NZ Army has lost soldiers in white-out conditions up there). At the chalet (which serves as a restaurant), there's a photo exhibition of the eruption which you may wish to have a quick look at.
At first, follow the ski lift to the right of the chalet. The lower route branches off to the right rather soon, whereas the upper route leads via the top of the ski lift. Neither route is signposted, so you need to pay goo attention to the map, or follow the people in front of you. After about 3 hours, you will reach the Dome Shelter overlooking the crater lake (or what's left of it). The area beyond the Dome Shelter has seen major "landscaping" during the eruptions in 1995 and 1996. Depending on the status of the volcano (ask at the DOC Visitor Centre in Whakapapa), you may wish to venture further down to the rim of the crater.
Dome Shelter is also one of the seismological survey stations for the volcano. The actual equipment is in a concrete vault beneath the shelter - for a good reason: the shelter was extensively damaged during the eruptions. Have a look through the perspex sheet at the front of the shelter: the holes covered here were punched by volcanic bombs. The now-repaired roof of the shelter had an A3 size hole in it when the first working party went up after the 1995 eruption.
Traditionally, people used to return to the skifield via the upper route, and many still do. However, the initial attraction (a long ice and snow field that you could slide down on a plastic bag) has become a bit dangerous now that the snow is mixed with a lot of highly abrasive ash particles.
Plan for about five hours return.
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